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Home > Postcards > Nepal > 31 Oct 1987 -- To Kathmandu


We are here. The night was spent trying to waste time, some in sleep, some in thought, some in study, and some in simply walking around for something to do. We had ten hours to kill in S'pore 'port, waiting for the flight to Kathmandu. Originally our wait was to be only seven hours, but it slipped, and fortunately too (they explained), for the Kathmandu Airport was closed during those extra three hours anyway.

We stopped in Dacha, Bangladesh (country of the Bangles) to let off half of the passengers. The poverty was amazing. There were people everywhere, fishing, tending to their yaks, and generally foraging in the swampy land around the airport. Fortunately for them, I suppose, the airport seemed to be infrequently used. There were only three other major airplanes in the airport. Nevertheless the plane was parked in a far corner of the airport, and the passengers were bused to the terminal. As we came in for the landing we could see that a large portion of the delta lands into which the Ganges and three other major rivers empty, were flooded.

The flight into Kathmandu was dominated by the Himalaya. Brad knew that they would be on the right side of the plane as we flew in, so we had requested and got the appropriate window seats. As we approached, the vast peaks, initially indistinguishable from the massive clouds that surrounded them, became apparent. These were clouds with firm lines, solid character. As they say, the clouds in Nepal have rocks in them.

The second range we saw contained Everest, whose stature as tallest mountain, so recently threatened by that upstart K2, has evidently been upheld. Still #1. It was interesting that the majority of the people in the plane hand no idea of the magnificent sight that was unfolding below, so they continued with their conversations. They should have suspected something was up, Brad was shooting photos like a madman.

As we closed in on the range, the woman to my right was strangely apathetic. She glanced out, but didn't really seem interested. I learned later that she had made the flight a week ago, during which the clouds that offered us relief and contrast hadn't been present. She was able to see the mountains in their full magnificence. I saw the poor snapshots she was able to take of them during her flight.

But we're not even to Kathmandu yet, and that precious writing time is fleeing past. So onward, plane, to Kathmandu.

We began our descent towards the Kathmandu valley, first passing the Mahabarat Lehk, the range of (very high) foothills just outside Kathmandu. These hills were very green, very steep, and very heavily populated. Every bit of arable land was, the peaks of the hills had all been leveled by repeated cultivation, the slanted parts had been terraced, and small villages dotted the hillsides. I suppose we'll be seeing a lot of this sort of village during the next few weeks. As we got lower we could see the land in more detail. It was meticulously cared for. Every available space was used to maximum benefit. This was in contrast to what we saw in Bangladesh, which seemed used, but very haphazardly so.

The hills were covered by a thin layer of smoke, evidence of heavy population, though now that we are in the city it is not so bad. Along the ridges and up the valleys there were little trails, begging to be trekked. I got a sudden urge to hit the trails.

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