Today's hike was a fairly easy one. We gained 1,500 feet in altitude in a fairly gently graded walk through fresh smelling pine forests. There were some interesting views along the way, mountains and such, most interesting of which was a huge inverted lake bed, clearly a single layer, that had been turned sideways and bent to form a huge smooth amphitheater, perhaps a mile from one end to the other. Please refer to photos.

Most of the day's walk was spent on narrow trails, often chiseled out of solid rock, high above, but not far from the diminishing Marsyangdi Khola.

After much leisurely strolling and photo-taking, we made it to the town of Pisang. By now the climate had become extremely arid, a quick change from the forests below. Pisang was split into two sections.The lower section seemed to be primarily for tourists. The upper section (1500 ft. higher) was built on a steep hill. The houses wereall interconnected in a most interesting fashion. It is possible in places to get from the front of town to the back of town by climbing the network of ladders from one level to the next. (It could equivalently be called the bottom of town to the top of town, but why pick nits). The ladders themselves are interesting, consisting of aportion of a log with steps hacked into it, and always placed securely in a corner. Some of the fancier ones had handrails carved into the edges as well.

We had tea in one of the houses (which also rented out a couple of beds, outside in the cold), so I had a chance to examine it closely. First let me explain that Pisang, at least at this time of year is barren and cold. At night the ground freezes solid. There was nothing growing in any of the fields, save a few dry straw-like whisps pushing up through the rock-strewn ground. Everywhere goats nibbled away at those scraps of straw. The key points are that it is cold and that there is no food growing there.

The buildings are constructed like fortresses, with very thick walls that are obviously good insulators. Each family unit has two levels: the upper one for the family, the lower one for a cow or horse. Spaces between levels that would normally contain walls, instead are piled with wood or hay, enough to last the winter, forming a temporary wall. Because the weather has already turned, these walls have already been built. Other areas were stacked with huge bags of rice and grain for the winter.

Floorplan

This rough floorplan shows the way it is arranged (what I remember of  it). You climb up to the main floor from the latter at the top. From there you can look down into the lower level where the horse lives. This upper left portion is uncovered. Walking around (along the dotted line) you come to the main covered area. To one side is an enclosed area, the outer wall built of stacks of firewood (///) and big bags of grain (ooo). This area contains a table big enough for four and a bed-like area (rented out to two tourists). In the corner sat an old man who was sewing strips of cloth onto the edges of a prayer flag so that it could be tied to a pole. This spot was half-in and half-out of the sun so that he could move about to adjust his temperature. Around the corner from him sat a woman preparing peppers in a large, flat basket. She was completely in the sun where the peppers could dry. Finally, inside is the main living quarters. It was a very dark, very warm, and very smoky room. The only source of light/ventilation was the single small door. A row of large bags of grain was stacked against the wall. From the ceiling of half the room hung strips of smoked yak meat to dry. From the ceiling of the other half hung peppers to dry. One portion of the room was a cooking area, the rest seemed to be a general living/sleeping area. It was so dark I couldn't notice too many other details.

Pisang was the first town where there was evidence of shortages.We tried to get a meal at the hotel that was recommended in the book, but they were basically out of everything. Our hotel had a better supply of food. This shortage caused us some concern as to whether there would be enough food at higher altitudes.